marie b:

Hi, I think it would depend on what vintage you would like? Any particular time period?. Then it comes down to how much you are looking to spend. what finish you want? will you be doing to Ceiling, walls and woodwork? I can suggest looking on the farrow and ball website or fired earth. These people cater for things like victorian colours and i believe they use the same ingredients. Have you got wallpaper on? is it staying on? What are the condition of the walls – etc….
The fact that you have got some pretty nice stuff and although “vague” re vintage i think you have a vision to roughly what you want. Google interior designs or even designers. You could even google vintage colours or colour schemes and finishes. If you are to do the work yourself and are prepared to put in the research and £££££ please dont scrimp on the preparation of the surfaces. Small tip. Pick up some ready made artex as opposed to filler, it goes on very smooth (with poor marked, chipped, scratched walls and visible joins may i also suggest a caulk board. Put the artex on to the board, doesnt matter how much you put on because you can take it off again, the wider the board the less chance of scagging the area. Walls are generally flat surfaces and with a flexible caulk board the filling can stay flat too without excess artex edges to rub down. also on the list Decorators Caulk is the most wonderful substance in the world. You need a caulk/silicone gun. If you look at the room joins – could even be age dependant eg, ceiling to coving – coving to walls – walls to skirting, door frame, fireplace etc you may see rough edges, peeled, flaked paint in the joins. The chances your skirting will have dips in, could be the formation of the wood, anyway caulk is like a thicker fast drying version of PVA or a very smooth thinner putty. Comes in a tube with a range of colours now. Cut the top off the tube carefully with a knife (stanley) – like the first indent scored in and cut straight. SCrew the nozzle on and lay the tube on a table or step with plenty of vacant space. The tip of the nozzle needs to come off so move the knife from the tip roughly 1 cm and slice diagonally to the bottom of the tip. Put the tube in to the gun and fire away he he. carry a damp cloth for excess wipeage and when you apply the caulk to a join hold the gun on an angle and pull it along the join from arms length, then use your finger to very lightly smooth out from one end to the other and just look at the result you get… This is not filler and although it can be peeled or scraped its not filler. dont fill holes and scratches with it because it doesnt really rub down too well. In deeper joins try and seal. the caulk does shrink and may need a 2nd going over.
Sorry, enough of me going on but i am a decorator and very passionate about my work. Got any questions, send me a mail

I wish you all the best

Regards

Marie